PS3 Slim PCB (Motherboard) repair help

[GamerAbei]

Cheers! I have a multimeter, ma man!
And I did try to measure the voltages.
Maybe I didn't do it correctly, I can't really guarantee I measured them the proper way, but, it is this way:-

• Point 1 (Power) = 5.9v
• Point 2 (Ground) = 0v
• Point 3 (Something) = Ov on standby, but when power button is switched on, it goes to 3.3v
• Point 4 (Standby) = 5.3v

Also, as you suggested that maybe the wire couldn't carry 5 volts, I changed the wires with heavy duty ones. These definitely can. But, I wasn't really sure that it was the wires that couldn't carry the weight, because, if that was so, the fan test also should have been affected, shouldn't it have? It too needs much power to run. But the fan test ran great, it does now, as well, but still the same issue. Ps3 turns off in a couple moments.

Check the voltages above, see if they are correct. And also, tell me how to measure the voltages, in case I did it wrong.

I am really bending towards the conclusion that there's either a short in the motherboard (which there never was, but still, maybe now there is) or, the two wires that I connected behind should be connected somewhere else.

 

[bnm1]

Try getting point 1 to 12v that may be the issue.

Try to solder pin 1 to the syscon chip instead that should activate the 12v on the PSU.

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[GamerAbei]

Before I do this, I need some confirmation.

1. Syscon chip = NOR chip?

2. If it is NOR chip, isn't this method done to keep the ps3 on, in case of a faulty E3 flashing or a bricked console? Would it work in my case? Coz it's NOT bricked, no faulty updates, NO flashing EVER.

3. Let's say it worked and the PS3 stays on, even works and I can play games on it. Can I keep it connected that way forever and reassemble the PS3? No issues?
Or should it only be done temporarily, just to figure out the fault?

Please answer these.

And you didn't confirm, are the voltages I'm getting, correct?

 

[bnm1]

Yeah your voltages are correct but I would test that point on the syscon chip though to see if it works or gives any other results. If the PS3 boots into the XMB I would just keep it that way and save for another PS3 on eBay.

 

[GamerAbei]

Im'ma try that, then.

I request the moderators to keep this post open, as whatever happens, however I fix it, I would come and give out the details here, so that anyone with a similar problem(hopefully no one) could be benefited from it.

When the problem is solved, I would myself request the moderator to close the thread if they want. Thanks!

@bnm1 Dude, to tell you the truth, I chickened out from doing that. Coz I am really unsure if I would get it right or not. Meanwhile, I have ruled out the Wifi module causing problems, completely. Won't need to worry about that.

• Ruled out the power board flex cable.
• No fan shorting or problems.
• The voltages seem correct.
• Nothing seems burned out, shorted.

Because this problem first emerged only after I connected the ripped off jack again by bridging the two wires, I can only think maybe something wrong happened there.
That's the only thing that I can think of. Rest EVERYTHING in the PS3 was perfect! There were NEVER any issues.

I will try that idea you gave, but only after I have tried everything else. Any fresh ideas?

P.S. Do you or someone you know by any chance have a spare JTP-001 motherboard with which you can confirm that the PS3 successfully boots when the wires are bridged like in my case?

I would go to some repair service shop, but the problem is, where I live, there are rarely any shops, and the ones that there are, are mighty incompetent.

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[bnm1]

I'm not going to lie the work done to that motherboard looks very poor. Especially in the second photo the area around the connector looks terrible. The solder connections don't look strong and the ground cable looks damaged in the third photo. Also there are traces on the motherboard you can't see.

You might of fractured one with the solder gun. The trace where you soldered the red cable looks burnt and factured man. And I see micro scratches in a couple spots. I think that motherboard is done bro. All I think you can do is apply alcohol and flux the solder points but I doubt it will work.

Also you shouldn't have cut the metal shield away from the WiFi module. It is intended to keep out electromagnetic interference. That's the same reason for the metal enclosure around the motherboard.

 

[GamerAbei]

I understand.
The work is poor. That happens when one doesn't have any proper equipment and only basic equipment.
Can't really say about the scratches and all.
The wifi isn't getting any power, I have cut off power to it by removing the inductor, so no problems there.
That burn you are talking about is definitely an illusion, caused by my stupid brown coloured, wax like flux, which liquifies on heating and solidifies in a couple seconds again.
Whatever is wrong with it, I don't firmly believe the motherboard is done(at least not yet).
Instead, I am pretty sure I am missing something that I am not thinking of.

Tell me one last thing, just to clear it out.

Would it matter if the flex cables have golden connections or silver ones(the teeth on each end)?
I originally had golden ones, like the ones the bluray drive has.
But after the jack broke, I misplaced the one that was in it, and bought another very cheap one. So, the next time it powered on(in the current condition) was with the new cable.

Would it matter (coz I read somewhere, someone else was having this same issue, just because of the flex cable, so maybe)? I'm grasping at straws here.

The original one, most probably was-
"20621 80C 60V VW-1" and the current one is "20861 105C 60V VW-1"
Do these readings and golden teeth matter, at all?

Thanks for all your help, buddy. Really appreciate you and your honest help.

Edit- The best look at the situation we are dealing with:-

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See the chipped off/broken area between the capacitors and the 5v power pin solder point?
What if that is causing problems?

P.S. The image is very high resolution, please zoom in and see. Ignore the scratches, they are just on the surface, not damaging any traces.