PS3 Guides and Tutorials       Thread starter Self       4097       18

PLAYER 1

Senior Member
Contributor
the secret to keep it working after (a good) reball/reflow is how to reassembly, nobody think about the technicall details to prevent fatigue and buckling. just a little common sense and ready.
a machine cant do that.
 

Doc Holiday

Member
Contributor
Verified
Hey @Self, I was wondering if you could help me. It's hard getting answers on the discord channel at times. I have a serious problem with a cechA01. I thought it could be ylod/rlod so I took the system apart and cleaned out the vents, the chips, re-flowed with heat and applied thermal paste.

I thought "Okay, I think I fixed it." Went to boot it up and it shut off with three beeps and the flashing red light again. I can't figure it out.
 

misiozol

Staff Member
Moderator
Contributor
Verified
Tutorial is incorrect/with lots of flaws , first of all there is not temp for bottom heater which is most important element there is no distance from heater to board no exact time is given for heating bottom , temp. for top is extremely high on edge of blowing chip times are incorrect there is no distance from top heater there is no head for hot air to be properly distributed across wide area of chip , pure amateur and dangerous , if you not interested in life longevity of your console that's fastest way of killing it.
 

madix

Member
Contributor
I have reballed lots of ps3 systems. I also have people that only wanted a reflow and have done a lot of those. For me I used profiles that heated the board up slowly so the board doesnt bend or bow in anyway. This is why the rig that you bolt the board to is just as important as the profile that you use. Each unit is different, I used a achi ir pro sc for the reballing and for the reflows, for me I found that what works for me is different than others, that is because the IR units are not the same and temps are not the same on units. For me I used a lot of the same materials that is talked about here but I also used some different things. I see that Self goes with an air top unit that blows onto the board, where I use IR and not air. This can be whatever you feel comfortable with.

I could give you my heating profile but it wouldnt do you any good unless you had my unit with you and was using it. I can point you in the correct direction and say what I would use if I were you however I would need to know what unit you were running. Also with my IR station you can hook up a computer to to see the heating curve which I use with it as well some units dont have this. My reball profile and reflow profile are almost the exactly the same, the only different is I hold the highest temperature point longer for reballs to make sure that all the solder is melted and I'm not talking holding it for a minute or anything like that. Its held like an extra 10 seconds. Also if you are working with a unit that "popcorns" the solder then dont try another system to work on into you figure out why it's doing that. Chances are if it is doing it on one unit, it will do it on another.

I would say do your research because people have been doing reballs on these systems for a while now and I would bet that whatever your setup is someone has used it to do a reball and have posted somewhere what their settings are.

I have figured with the amount of things that I work on for people: ps3s, ps4s, xbox 360, xbox one, laptop boards, graphics cards, etc... I'm going to upgrade my unit and will be selling my old achi pro sc, if someone is interested in buying it let me know if not I'm going to list it on Ebay to get rid of it. This unit has done over 200 reballs for me maybe more. But this unit is plug and play as I will keep my profiles on there. If anyone has any questions let me know and I'll see if I can help you out but remember I am human and I have a life so allow time for me to get back to you. Laterz
 

UsualNoise

Contributor
I just had my first YLOD on my launch model CECHB01 this weekend. I have 2 of these units, and after tearing both down to the motherboard the scary thing was the one that died looks pretty good, no obvious flaws, while the one still working has quite a bit more solder flux on the board. Anyway, I cleaned and applied new thermal paste to both but the YLOD remained on the first.

My question: a local place (ubreakifix) claims to fix the YLOD problem, so I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them? I'd love to just get some saves off the console and don't really have the money to buy the equipment to attempt this myself.

If anyone knows of an alternative place you could just mail a PS3 motherboard for this service I'd appreciate the heads up. Obviously I don't know exactly what led to the YLOD so it might not be the CPU/GPU but that seems like the most likely culprit.
 
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